"Red-and-green checkered tablecloths outfit La Fontanella's dining room, the most intimate on the street with seating for 38. Signed photos of Dennis Farina and Oliver North, among others, sing tomato-tinged praises for Franco and Maria Gamberale's menu. Opened in 1971, the husband-and-wife team has taken turns in the kitchen since they took over in 1986 and are quick to insist that no guest is rushed out. Relax over dishes of their own invention like Pollo Alla Fontanella, a half-chicken stuffed with garlic and herbs then breaded, baked and served with pasta and vegetables." Courtesy of KATE SCHWARTZ